Since the neck is finished only with the gunstock oil/wax blend, it is more susceptible to humidity changes. A very infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Use a small amount, leave it on for just 5 minutes, then it off with a paper towel. After that, apply Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.
Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores or directly. Their web address is www.birchwoodcasey.com
Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with the gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil. Again, for cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner are excellent for frequent cleaning and maintenance as they are very effective and string removal is not necessary.
If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps! On an unfinished neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal. Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.
FOR SCHALLER LOCKING TUNERS:
After removing the old string, loosen the thumbwheel screw in the back of the tuner of the string you are going to change. After inserting the string into the back of the tremolo plate in back and over the saddle (it is not necessary to remove the trem plate), run the string all the way up to the correct tuner. Re-tighten the thumbwheel screw until the string does not move out of the hole in the tuner (do not over-tighten) With a good pair of wire cutters, cut the excess string. Tune the string to pitch.
FOR FLOYD ROSE BRIDGES:
When replacing a string on a guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge, it is very important that the bridge should sit parallel to the body so as not to damage the finish. It is recommended to change strings one or two at a time; certainly leave at least one of the strings tuned to pitch while changing the rest, and place a soft towel or cloth under the back of the bridge to protect the finish.
Care must be taker not to over-tighten the saddle clamps. Push new strings through the saddle first with the ball end toward the nut so that you may fish the ball end under the string retainer to avoid damaging the finish. Strings should come off of the retainer toward the nut to assure that the string is touching the entire surface of the nut in order to keep the string from changing pitch when installing the nut clamp. You are now ready to tighten the strings at each end.
Players can adjust the action lower or higher to fit their playing style. Clockwise to raise the fretboard, counter clockwise to lower it.
Also available with piezo pickups are all of our basses (except the SUBs).
The only guitar we make with active electronics is the Luke, which is made to Steve Lukather's exact specifications.
It is also available with a rosewood top and an ALL-rosewood neck.
The Axis Super Sport has a wider variety of options, check our spec page for information.
Axis SuperSport
Silhouette Special
Luke
John Petrucci
John Petrucci Ball Family Reserve
Not all options may be available on left-handed versions. Please ask your Music Man dealer.
Care must be taken not to over-tighten the saddle clamps. Push new guitar strings through the saddle first with the ball end toward the nut so that you may fish the ball end under the string retainer to avoid damaging the finish. Strings should come off of the retainer toward the nut to assure that the guitar string is touching the entire surface of the nut in order to keep the string from changing pitch when installing the nut clamp. You are now ready to tighten the strings at each end.
Silhouette and Silhouette Special: RPS-9 Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239
Axis: RPS-9 Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239
Axis SuperSport with DiMarzio humbuckers: RPS-9 Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239
Axis SuperSport with MM-90 pickups: RPS-10 Slinky (10-46) catalog #2240
Steve Morse: 10-13-16(all RPS)-26-32-42, available in single strings only
Albert Lee: 10-13-16(all RPS)-26-36-46 available in single strings only
Luke: RPS-9 Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239
John Petrucci: RPS-10 Slinkys (10-46) catalog #2239
Benji Madden: 12-16-(RPS) - 24w-32-42-52 available in single strings only
SUB-1 guitar: RPS-9 Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239
The John Petrucci 7-string guitar uses RPS-9's with an added .56 nickelwound for the low B string. To build this set, use catalog #2239 with an added catalog #1156.
A "turn" as defined here is inserting an adjustment tool and moving a spoke of the wheel from one side of the opening at the body at the neck to the other side.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.0254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
Experiment a little to get the exact action you want.
You should also check the intonation, which will probably need to be adjusted. That is covered in another FAQ.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.0254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. String height is determined by your preference and playing style.
If a string buzzes on the open note to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed in the neck. If there is more buzz from the 5th fret to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter (less relief). Check the string height at every adjustment. If buzzing is present throughout the neck, the string height needs to increase. After every adjustment it is necessary to re-tune the guitar.
The standard float height is measured at 1 1/2 steps on the G-string. If you set this first at 440 tuning, it may make it easier to keep the bridge close to the same angle while making all of the other adjustments. You may want a different amount of float - many players prefer 1/2 or only 1 step of float.
After each adjustment, return to step one, and start again.
The bridge should sit parallel to the body, both from the bass and treble side to the front and back of the bridge. Anything other than that will damage the finish - very important! It is recommended to change strings at least one string still tuned to pitch, and if it is only one, it should be the lowest string. Do not remove all the strings at one time! Install strings with ball end toward the nut in order to fish the ball end under the string retainer in order to avoid scratching the finish. Strings should come off the retainer toward the nut so that the string is touching all of the nut to keep the string from changing pitch when installing the nut clamp.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.0254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style.
String height should be determined by each player's individual playing style. To adjust string height, the guitar needs to be disassembled to replace, remove or add shims in the neck (not recommended for the inexperienced or faint of heart). Remember to always protect the finish around the bridge by holding it firmly while removing the tremolo springs. After assembly, start back at step one.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
To test the tension of the springs: This is measured by bending the G string two steps (notes) or as many steps as you normally would plan to bend. Do the bend at the 12th fret or so. There should be just enough spring tension to keep the bridge flush to the body while bending the G string 2 whole steps. Be careful not to apply too much tension, or damage to the finish may occur. To tighten the spring tension, turn the screws holding the tremolo claw clockwise - lessen the tension by turning the screws counterclockwise. The tremolo claw is located under the tremolo back plate.
The next step is to check the relief in the neck by holding the lowest string down on the second fret with your fretting hand; then hold it down on the 12th fret with your right thumb and tap on the string on the middle of these two points to show how straight the neck is. It should be no more than the thickness of a thick business card, no more than that, though it can be less. If there is no relief a little pressure in the middle of the neck should take care of it. If it does not, feel free to contact us.
With the guitar tuned to pitch in the playing position and looking down the body, the top of the body, the top of the bridge should be parallel (both front to back, bass to treble side) to or slightly higher than the body with the bottom still recessed. The saddles should not come in contact with the cover and the intonation screws. If this occurs, lower the saddles and raise the bridge. After every adjustment, it is necessary to re-tune the guitar.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style, as well as the string gauge and tuning (if you you use an alternate tuning). Again, after every adjustment it is necessary to re-tune the guitar, to give you a starting reference.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
When setting up, always consider all of the other changes that will occur with every adjustment, starting with step one, tuning up after each step you take.
For intonation, check the harmonics to the fretted note on the twelfth fret If the fretted note is sharp, you need to make the string longer by turning the intonation screw for that string (located on the tail end of the bridge) clockwise, counter-clockwise if the fretted note is flat.If you turn the screw counter-clockwise, always turn the screw clockwise afterwards. (If you don't play much above that fret, you can skip the next step). Also check the harmonics at the 19th fret after the twelfth fret is set, repeating the procedure above. Make sure that the string is coming off of the saddle straight and not at an arch.
Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores, or now you can order them direct. Their web address is http://www.birchwoodcasey.com.
Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with the gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil, or even better, with Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner. These wipes really work.
For cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards, and again our Wopnder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner. If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1, to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend a lot of. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps!
On an maple neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal.
There is detail information on setting up your instrument elsewhere in the FAQ section.
1. The neck was widened slightly (1/32") at the body end. This was to correct problems for players who were having trouble with the high E string slipping off the neck on the 12th fret and up.
2. The switch was moved near the volume knob. This was done to help prevent accidental hitting of the switch, especially while strumming.
3. The "tone" knob was replaced by a volume knob (NOTE: it was always a volume pot - the "tone" knob was a sort of joke).
4. We added a comfort contour (a belly cut) to the top and back of the body.
This is what is on the Axis SuperSport that is not available on the Axis:
1. It comes with a tone control.
2. It is available with either a stop-tailpiece or a vintage tremolo with locking tuners, but not with a Floyd Rose bridge.
3. It is available with MM-90 pickups or the standard Axis humbucking pickups.
4. It is available with a piezo (acoustic) bridge (right-hand only - extra charge).
5. It is available left-handed (extra charge).
6. The SuperSport has a 5-way selector switch to employ coil-tapping, while the Axis uses a 3-way toggle switch.
7. The base price of the SuperSport is somewhat less than that of the Axis.
Of course, you can always just run the signal out of the "piezo/mono" output jack and have it run to to a standard guitar amp and mix the signal on your guitar alone - but to get the real potential of the piezo bridge, we know that running it through separate systems as described above works best.
The purpose of this new nut design is to improve note accuracy all over the fretboard. This is most apparent at the lower frets.
There is no special tuner, setup, or intonation required.
This nut is standard on all Music Man guitars and basses (of course except guitars equipped with Floyd Rose tremolo systems).
The Compensated Nut has been engineered to improve your Music Man instrument's potential to play perfectly in tune up an down the fretboard. Each string has an individual intonation pocket that slightly changes the effective string length, causing notes that traditionally play sharp to be more in tune.
The design has been optimized for standard string gauges and tunings, but will be of benefit when used with alternate tunings, string gauges, and playing styles.